Date: 12 Sep 91 13: 47: 51 gmt organization: mit lincoln Laboratory Lines: 31 I am in the process of installing hardwood floors



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Skipping unavailable article...........................................................................................Article 4414 (285 more) in rec.woodworking: From: rkc@xn.ll.mit.edu Subject: Re: Installing Hardwood Floors Message-ID: <1991Sep12.134751.13311@xn.ll.mit.edu> Date: 12 Sep 91 13:47:51 GMT Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory Lines: 31 I am in the process of installing hardwood floors. I have a small cape, and we did some remodeling that removed a wall downstairs and converted the upstairs from attic to livable space. The total square feet of hardwood to be installed/replaced is about 250. I was quoted the following prices: Installing/Piecing in: Materials/Eq. Rental Contractor A Contractor B $700 $1800 $2000 Sanding/Finishing: Materials/Eq. Rental $350 $1150 $1500 So you can see that you can save significant amounts of money by doing it --MORE--(49%) yourself. But you should realize that this work is HARD. The hammer you use to install the floor is about 5 lbs, and swinging that for 10 hours a day over 2-3 days can get to be VERY tiring. While fitting edge pieces and installing in closets (both are handwork jobs) can take quite a long time, wide open areas are relatively easy to install. I'm told that some people use pnematic nailers to speed the work and ease the strain on the arms and back; these were not available in my area, and I'm not so certain I'd want to use them for safety reasons. I am going to finish the installing myself, and then have a professional sand an d finish the wood, because the sanding job makes a mess, and we are living in the house while this work is going on. Thus, it makes sense for me to hire someone to finish up quickly so we can go about our "normal" lives. -Rob "Living in a constuction zone in Mass." End of article 4414 (of 4701)--what next? [npq] Article 4415 (284 more) in rec.woodworking: From: jims@amadeus.WR.TEK.COM (Jim Sullins) Subject: HELP! Bandsaw Information Needed Keywords: bandsaw Message-ID: <7169@wrgate.WR.TEK.COM> Date: 12 Sep 91 05:00:19 GMT Sender: news@wrgate.WR.TEK.COM Reply-To: jims@amadeus.WR.TEK.COM (Jim Sullins) Distribution: usa, na Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton, OR. Lines: 39 HELP! I got an OLD (Early 60s vintage?) Sears bandsaw at a garage sale a while back and I am trying to improve its cutting characteristics, etc. The model number of the saw is 103.24280. I believe it is considered to be a 12" saw (12 inches from blade to case). Well, not too surprisingly, Sears no longer stocks parts for this particular model of saw, and unfortunately does not provide any cross-reference to a newer (still supported model) with compatible parts. So I hope that by --MORE--(40%) Article 4416 (283 more) in rec.woodworking: From: moody+@cs.cmu.edu (James Moody) Subject: AMT summary Message-ID: <1991Sep12.135835.98331@cs.cmu.edu> Date: 12 Sep 91 13:58:35 GMT Distribution: na Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon Lines: 81 Nntp-Posting-Host: ius4.ius.cs.cmu.edu Originator: moody@IUS4.IUS.CS.CMU.edu Yesterday I posted a request for opinions on AMT products. Here's the responses I received so far (I received a couple requests to post my results). Names and addresses removed for brevity: -------------------- I have their scroll saw and their cross vise. The scroll saw is ok; it vibrates more than I'd like, but I was expecting about the quality I got. The vise is more problematic; the vibration of the drill press tends to move the cross-arms... In general, I'd rate them as a good Taiwanese clone importer. Their --MORE--(25%) Article 4417 (282 more) in rec.woodworking: From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson) Newsgroups: rec.scuba,rec.woodworking Subject: Re: scuba tanks as spray gun source Message-ID: <1991Sep12.134811.14574@schaefer.math.wisc.edu> Date: 12 Sep 91 13:48:11 GMT References: <1991Sep6.151933.13229@cbfsb.att.com> <12716014524010@mathom.cisco.c om> <91252.101642U08485@uicvm.uic.edu> Reply-To: wilson@math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson) Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics Lines: 26 >not a good idea unless you have the scube gear already. It used >carefully 80 cubic feet of air will go quite aways. On the surface, >a person will take up to 1 1/2 hours to consume that much. >-- > >Tim (or Garrett) Sos sos@erim.org or sos@amadeus.erim.org > -- all standard disclamers apply -- >Environmental Research Institute of Michigan, Signal Processing Department >ERIM, P.O. Box 134001, Ann Arbor, MI 48113-40001, (313)994-1200 Ext. 2848 --MORE--(53%) Article 4418 (281 more) in rec.woodworking: From: ashen@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Claude Ashen) Subject: Re: Power and *cost* (was: Re: table saw motor) Message-ID: <4890168@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> Date: 11 Sep 91 15:36:25 GMT References: <1991Aug29.160913.11674@cbnewse.cb.att.com> Organization: HP Network Measurements Div, Santa Rosa, CA Lines: 19 In rec.woodworking, mlord@bnr-rsc.UUCP (Mark Lord) writes: In article <15450@ulysses.att.com> smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) wri tes: * , marshall@windslc.seri.gov (Marshal l Buhl) writes: * <> >Anybody have any idea why Sears would say not to run the table saw motor * <> >on 240V? This intrigues me because I am going to add a 240V circuit to m y * * Don't forget to also change the power switch from SPST to SPDT, so that it * disconnect BOTH live wires when in the off position. --MORE--(74%) Article 4419 (280 more) in rec.woodworking: From: stanj@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Stan Jaffe) Subject: Turning Wooden Writing Pens Message-ID: <4890169@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> Date: 11 Sep 91 20:14:21 GMT Organization: HP Network Measurements Div, Santa Rosa, CA Lines: 44 A little while ago someone was looking for information on turning writing pens from wood. Last night I had the chance to visit a local wood turner who turns bowls and pens. Here's some information on turning pens: 1. The pen blank is roughly 7/8" square by ~2" long (grain running lengthwise?). There is a 7mm hole bored lengthwise with a thin brass tube inserted. The tube is glued to the blank. 2. The wood/brass combination is chucked between centers on a special mandrel. 3. Wood is turned to desired shape and size using standard spindle shaping techniques. 4. The piece is finished on the lathe. Deft finish (modified lacquer) is --MORE--(48%) applied with a rag, the the lathe is turned on and the finish dried through friction heating between the wood and the rag. Final finishing is accomplished with a paste wax. So, would you like to pursue this but the above instructions leave much to be desired? Well, I have good news for yews! Full instructions are available ($4), pen hardware ($3.25/pen for small quantities, less for more), and special lathe mandrel ($20) from: Craft Supplies 1-801-373-0917 1287 E. 1120 S. Provo, Utah 84601 They carry a full line of woodturning tools and supplies. DISCLAIMER: I have no affiliation with Craft Supplies. I have never done business with them. In fact, I had never heard of them until last night. Please DO NOT ask me any questions regarding wooden pens or wood turning in general, because I have exhausted all my knowledge of the subject within this posting! ;^) GOOD LUCK! --MORE--(91%) Stan Jaffe A.K.A. stanj@sr.hp.com HP Santa Rosa, Calif. "Not responsible for any opinions but my own" ------------------------------------------------------------------ End of article 4419 (of 4701)--what next? [npq] Article 4420 (279 more) in rec.woodworking: From: isjrc@dcatla.uucp (John R. Caruso) Subject: Re: Keller dovetail jigs Message-ID: <4531.28cf15e3@dcatla.uucp> Date: 12 Sep 91 07:23:15 GMT References: <1991Sep9.195912.27660@infonode.ingr.com> Organization: Digital Communications Associates, Alpharetta, GA Lines: 15 In article <1991Sep9.195912.27660@infonode.ingr.com>, bernie@barney.b11.ingr.COM (Bernie Holl) writes: > Does anyoneknow of sources for the Keller dovetail jigs? I have found > them in a "Woodworkers of New mexico" catalog but not anywhere else. > Thanks > > Bernie Holl bernie@barney.b11.ingr.com I think the Trendlines catalog has that item. Trendlines has an 800 number which I don't have at the moment. See the FAQ list or call 1-800-555-1212 and ask for the Trendlines listing. --MORE--(99%) Article 4421 (278 more) in rec.woodworking: From: isjrc@dcatla.uucp (John R. Caruso) Subject: Re: Installing a Hardwood Floor Message-ID: <4532.28cf185a@dcatla.uucp> Date: 12 Sep 91 07:33:45 GMT References: <91252.151337DM3WFINR@MIAMIU.BITNET> Organization: Digital Communications Associates, Alpharetta, GA Lines: 31 In article <91252.151337DM3WFINR@MIAMIU.BITNET>, DM3WFINR@MIAMIU.BITNET writes: > I will be moving next year...having a house built for myself (i.e., I am > not doing any of the construction). But, I did think of installing hardwood > floors because it seemed like a way for me to save some money, and > contribute to the construction. Has anyone installed hardwood floors and > is it worth the effort/time to save some bucks? > > David. I have done a hallway and a room about 10 by 12. The cost of the materials alone, 3/4 T & G red oak, came to about $4/sq. ft.. That's about what you pay for a damn good carpet but the hardwood floor will probably outlive even you. --MORE--(50%) It's an awful job if you do it by hand with cut nails. Any other nail will probably bend. I did the hallway by hand and said I'd never do it again. A few years later, I did the room and rented a flooring nailer. Since I have a compressor it wasn't a problem; in retrospect I would have rented a compressor if needed because the job is a colossal bore. It's like refinishing a gymnasium floor with an artist's brush. You lay down one row at a time and when you get to the end of the row you're amazed at how little ground you've covered, and on and on it goes. The pneumatic nailer makes the job infinitely easier. When finished installing the floor make sure you sand it preferably with a drum sander which is much easier to control. Get a price on your materials locally and then get a quote from an installer. I think I've described the effort involved and you can decide if that plus the savings is worth it. I couldn't afford to have most things done for me on my house so it was worth it. jRc End of article 4421 (of 4701)--what next? [npq] Article 4422 (277 more) in rec.woodworking: From: budd@elxsi.dfrf.nasa.gov (Gerry Budd) Newsgroups: rec.scuba,rec.woodworking Subject: Re: scuba tanks as spray gun source Message-ID: Date: 12 Sep 91 15:31:05 GMT References: <1991Sep6.151933.13229@cbfsb.att.com> <12716014524010@mathom.cisco.com> <91252.101642U08485@uicvm.uic.edu> Sender: news@skipper.dfrf.nasa.gov Organization: NASA Dryden, Edwards, Cal. Lines: 28 In-reply-to: sos@spsd4360a.erim.org's message of 11 Sep 91 18:56:51 GMT In article sos@spsd4360a.erim.org (Tim So s) writes: If you own the scuba tank, all you need is a $10 fitting and the secondary regulator ($30-60). The air costs $2-4/tank. If this lasts 2-3 months of "small" spray jobs I would be happy. This is not a good idea unless you have the scube gear already. It used carefully 80 cubic feet of air will go quite aways. On the surface, --MORE--(53%) Article 4423 (276 more) in rec.woodworking: From: br+@CS.CMU.EDU (Bill Ross) Subject: Thickness Planer Follow-on Message-ID: <1991Sep12.113918.44751@cs.cmu.edu> Date: 12 Sep 91 11:39:18 GMT Reply-To: br@cs.cmu.edu Organization: CMU Vision and Autonomous Systems Center Lines: 30 Nntp-Posting-Host: ius4.ius.cs.cmu.edu Since I recently posted a summary of my thickness planer findings, I thought I would tell you folks about how it turned out. I ended up ordering the Delta 12" from Tools on Sale. The price was $389 and it showed up 8 days after I placed my order. No real problems except that the cosmolene that was supposed to protect the blades had melted/liquified and left sticky black oily stuff all over everything... After a good cleaning I ran a bunch of pine scrap through it until I thought it had spun all the residue off the cutter head. Then I ran several 6"*3" pieces of oak through it. The oak went smoothly with --MORE--(57%) no bogging down even on deeper cuts. As some people have mentioned previously, the Delta does seem to snipe a little more than some other planers if you take deep cuts. The sniping was more noticable in the soft wood than in the oak though. Nice things: The height gauge seems to be of usable accuracy. The infeed and outfeed tables are nice and big and support the wood well. The machine is less noisy than typical small planers. It seems to have plenty of power. Biggest problem so far: The infeed and outfeed tables don't attach to the planer very securely and are a little flimsy. I would like to mount the planer on a couple of oak rails to make it more stable to use but I will have to rig up some sort of support for the infeed and outfeed too... Bill End of article 4423 (of 4701)--what next? [npq] Skipping unavailable article..............................................................................................................................Article 4552 (149 more) in rec.woodworking: From: hsc@stroid.sybase.com (Howard Cohen) Subject: Re: HELP! Bandsaw Information Needed Message-ID: <15236@sybase.sybase.com> Date: 20 Sep 91 16:16:46 GMT References: <64204@rphroy.ph.gmr.com> Sender: news@Sybase.COM Organization: Sybase, Inc. Lines: 24 In article <64204@rphroy.ph.gmr.com> rhaar@albert.oname writes: >I wouldn't count out Sears. Your comments do apply to the saleslime >at many Sear retail stores. But Sears also has separate Service Centers. >Maybe the one near me is unusual, but I have had consistently good >success with them. I concur. I too have used a Sears service center. They were crowded on a Saturday, but I soon came to understand that it was because they offer a valuable service and they do a good job of it. I had a Sears hand-held circular saw that had a trashed gear on the inside. I brought the serial number and model number with me, and the clerk found an exploded diagram. She let me point to the part I needed, and that way I was sure I was ordering what I needed. She filled out an order right there, and I had my --MORE--(68%) Article 4553 (148 more) in rec.woodworking: From: wainscot@oreo.berkeley.edu (Brian Wainscott) Subject: Need advice: looking for a slow grinder. Message-ID: <1991Sep22.034249.3950@agate.berkeley.edu> Date: 22 Sep 91 03:42:49 GMT Sender: usenet@agate.berkeley.edu (USENET Administrator) Distribution: na Organization: U.C. Berkeley Math. Department. Lines: 35 Originator: wainscot@oreo.berkeley.edu I'm looking for a slow grinder for sharpening my chisels on (only for the first stage, when I've really abused one of them). I need advice. This is what I've found so far: Delta has a nice looking wet/dry grinder (normal small wheel with a 10"x2" 70rpm wet wheel) for $159 (price at TOS). This is more than I want to spend. AMT has a very similar looking beast, price $97+$14 shipping. I don't know anything about AMT (American Machine and Tool, PA). I was not impressed with anything else I saw in their catalogue, so I am suspicious about this also. It looks ok, but I just don't seem to be able --MORE--(47%) to bring myself to buy it. Any and all information about these folks and the quality of their stuff would be appreciated. Finally, Krenov (in his book The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking) recommends a simple hand driven grinder. I believe this is becuase the slow grinders have only recently become available. In any case, Garret Wade has a hand driven 6" grinder (geared with 13.5 to 1 ratio) for about $55 (last years catalogue). This is much more in my price range, but a motor would be nice -- I'm not sure I'm coordinated enough to turn the wheel with one hand while sharpening the chisel with the other! Advice, comments and suggestions all most welcome. Thank you. (BTW, I already have a 180 grit waterstone, which is ok but not really adequate for what I want to do. I've heard people like the coarse diamond stone, but I think I really want a grinder.) -- Brian Wainscott \========================================================= Graduate Student \ "I want to get so close to Him, that its no big change U.C. Berkeley \ on the day that Jesus calls my name." - Wayne Watson wainscot@math.berkeley.edu\=================================================== End of article 4553 (of 4701)--what next? [npq] Article 4554 (147 more) in rec.woodworking: From: sbhattac@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU (Shankar Bhattacharyya) Subject: Re: circ -> pseudo table saw : good or bad idea? Message-ID: <16506@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU> Date: 22 Sep 91 13:00:54 GMT References: <14845.28da1296@ecs.umass.edu> Organization: NYU Stern School of Business Lines: 52 In article <14845.28da1296@ecs.umass.edu> marsden@ecs.umass.edu writes: >My question: I've heard of "workstation" tables that will allow you >to attach hand held tools for added versatility, eg circular saw becomes >a poor man's table saw, drill -> drill press, and such. I'm sorry this >sounds like such a hack, but I'd be interested in hearing if anyone >has opinions/knowledge of such things, and where to get them. I'm >concerned about safety, and cost/quality trade-offs. I plan on getting >a router table, but thought I'd find out if a more versatile router >plus circular saw table might be a reasonable option. I have. As a very broke student I went through the same reasoning, and bought a Hirsch table, designed for just this purpose. It sounded like a good idea. It turned out it was not. --MORE--(41%) Article 4555 (146 more) in rec.woodworking: From: hsc@stroid.sybase.com (Howard Cohen) Subject: Re: Making frame&panel doors by hand Message-ID: <15244@sybase.sybase.com> Date: 20 Sep 91 17:25:28 GMT References: <9935@cognos.UUCP> Sender: news@Sybase.COM Organization: Sybase, Inc. Lines: 17 In article <9935@cognos.UUCP> richardb@cognos.UUCP () writes: > >Is there some hand tool I'm not aware of? What >did they do in the 'old' days of frame&panel construction? I guess it depends on which culture you think of when you say the "good old days". I have one of those very thin japanese pull-saws, and I have been extremley impressed with it so far. It really is easy to use and makes a wonderful cut. I'd bet you can easily cut a groove in the end-grain that would be suitable for the frame in a frame and panel cabinet. You might clean up any excess with a chisel, and you're in business (so to speak.) Howard --MORE--(79%) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen hsc@sybase.com {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc Sybase, Inc. 6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 510-596-3406 End of article 4555 (of 4701)--what next? [npq] Article 4556 (145 more) in rec.woodworking: From: ncramer@bbn.com (Nichael Cramer) Subject: Query about teeth on Japanese Saws [was: Making frame&panel doors by hand] Message-ID: <66446@bbn.BBN.COM> Date: 22 Sep 91 17:31:57 GMT References: <9935@cognos.UUCP> <15244@sybase.sybase.com> Sender: news@bbn.com Reply-To: ncramer@labs-n.bbn.com (Nichael Cramer) Lines: 21 hsc@stroid.sybase.com (Howard Cohen) writes: > ... I have one of those very thin japanese pull-saws, and I >have been extremley impressed with it so far. It really is easy to use and >makes a wonderful cut.... My experience with Japanese saws is totally limited to FW articles. While I've been very intrigued by what seems to be their obvious advantage (i.e. cut on the draw ==> narrower blade ==> narrower kerf) I've been rather put off by the apparent problems of maintaining the teeth (i.e. long, narrow and "multi-faceted" ==> easy to break/bend and difficult/complicated to sharpen). --MORE--(71%) So my question is: Is there anything inherent in the nature of how the saw works that required the teeth to be this way? I guess what I'm imagining is a hybrid of a thin japanese-like blade filed (re-filed?) with sturdier, less-complicated western style teeth. Do such beasts exist, or am I missing something simple here? Thanks NICHAEL nichael@bbn.com -- "Dr Pepper -- it's not just for breakfast anymore." End of article 4556 (of 4701)--what next? [npq] Article 4557 (144 more) in rec.woodworking: From: whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) Subject: Re: Query about teeth on Japanese Saws [was: Making frame&panel doors by hand] Message-ID: <1991Sep22.231528.12817@milton.u.washington.edu> Date: 22 Sep 91 23:15:28 GMT References: <9935@cognos.UUCP> <15244@sybase.sybase.com> <66446@bbn.BBN.COM> Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 15 In article <66446@bbn.BBN.COM> ncramer@labs-n.bbn.com (Nichael Cramer) writes: ... [about Japanese hand saws] >I've been very intrigued by what seems to be their obvious advantage (i.e. >cut on the draw ==> narrower blade ==> narrower kerf) I've been rather put >off by the apparent problems of maintaining the teeth (i.e. long, narrow >and "multi-faceted" ==> easy to break/bend and difficult/complicated to >sharpen). I usually put coping saw blades in my coping saw in the 'cut on the draw' orientation. Except for the difficulty of holding to a line with such narrow blades, I find that they work quite well. Blades are inexpensive and replaceable, of course. --MORE--(98%) John Whitmore End of article 4557 (of 4701)--what next? [npq] Article 4558 (143 more) in rec.woodworking: From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson) Subject: Re: treated lumber Message-ID: <1991Sep23.120043.2722@ucunix.san.uc.edu> Date: 23 Sep 91 12:00:43 GMT Sender: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson) Organization: Univ. of Cincinnati Lines: 20 > Are there any problems associated with routing salt treated lumber? > (other than those associated with non-salt treated lumber)???? > I had heard that the bits wear down quicker because of the chemicals. This depends on the kind of treatment, regular pressure treated, or fire proofed (resistant). PT presents no particular problem to tooling, the problem is you. The dust and shaving are VERY toxic if inhaled or ingusted so: wear a good resporater, cleanup all waste and dispose of carefully, and wash all clothing when finished (these are the industries recs). Otherwise the stuff is fairly benign. --MORE--(81%) As forthe FP that I have seen, a steel saw blade was rendered useless after riping an 8' 2X4. Carbide is better but still wares faster with this stuff. I don't know anything about its toxity, does anyone else? End of article 4558 (of 4701)--what next? [npq] Article 4559 (142 more) in rec.woodworking: From: isjrc@dcatla.uucp (John R. Caruso) Subject: Re: Special purpose Euro-hinges wanted Message-ID: <4645.28dda3b7@dcatla.uucp> Date: 23 Sep 91 08:20:07 GMT References: <2875@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil> Organization: Digital Communications Associates, Alpharetta, GA Lines: 25 In article <2875@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil>, erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David E rickson) writes: > I need some cabinet door hinges for European frameless cabinets with full- > overlay doors that solve the following problem: > > Is there a hinge which swings the door completely away from the > front of the cabinet (when opened more than 90 degrees)? Grass America makes a concealed hinge that works for inset as well as overlay. It does not require a pocket in the door. I bought them locally at a cabinet supply company for 3.50 each. I've seen them in the Trendline catalog for 12.95/pair so the price is extremely variable. --MORE--(73%) When opened the door retracts from the frame approximately 1/2 to 3/4. I bought them for my kithen cabinet remodeling job. My only criticism is that they only provided for X or Y plane adjustment in each half of the hinge. It would have been nice to have both adjustment planes in each half. If you need more info, email me and I will try to get the mfrs address. jRc End of article 4559 (of 4701)--what next? [npq] 4557 Article 4557 (142 more) in rec.woodworking: From: whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) Subject: Re: Query about teeth on Japanese Saws [was: Making frame&panel doors by hand] Message-ID: <1991Sep22.231528.12817@milton.u.washington.edu> Date: 22 Sep 91 23:15:28 GMT References: <9935@cognos.UUCP> <15244@sybase.sybase.com> <66446@bbn.BBN.COM> Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 15 In article <66446@bbn.BBN.COM> ncramer@labs-n.bbn.com (Nichael Cramer) writes: ... [about Japanese hand saws] >I've been very intrigued by what seems to be their obvious advantage (i.e. >cut on the draw ==> narrower blade ==> narrower kerf) I've been rather put >off by the apparent problems of maintaining the teeth (i.e. long, narrow >and "multi-faceted" ==> easy to break/bend and difficult/complicated to >sharpen). I usually put coping saw blades in my coping saw in the 'cut on the draw' orientation. Except for the difficulty of holding to a line with such narrow blades, I find that they work quite well. Blades are inexpensive and replaceable, of course. --MORE--(98%) John Whitmore End of article 4557 (of 4701)--what next? [npq] 4556 Article 4556 (142 more) in rec.woodworking: From: ncramer@bbn.com (Nichael Cramer) Subject: Query about teeth on Japanese Saws [was: Making frame&panel doors by hand] Message-ID: <66446@bbn.BBN.COM>

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