Master retouching tips document


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To easily resize a photo in Photoshop 3

Dream Effect Used on Football Player 3

How to use a layer mask to blur a background 4

Making sun rays in a photo 4

Painting the old fashioned way (from Cricket) 6

Fireworks 7

photo jpg jpeg batch saves 8

Photo last step retouch 8

Photo macros tips 8

Photoshop chrome lettering 9

Photoshop removing cracks and lines 11

Photoshop add blue sky and clouds 14

Photoshop B&W colorize 14

Photoshop blending two images 15

Photoshop brighten shadows 15

Photoshop color to B&W with Photoshop 18

Photoshop Elements Tip: Make Your Pictures Pop 18

Photoshop convert to pencil drawing effect 19

Photoshop dodge burn 20


Gradients 22

Photoshop edge effects 22

How To Use Grayscale Masks For Edge Effects in Photoshop 5 and Up 23

Photoshop greyscale conversion 24

Photoshop inner shadow around edge frame 25

Lisa Neal’s sketch technique 25

Photoshop insta sketch paint 26

Photoshop layer masks tutorial 28

Photoshop line art 28

Photoshop match colors combine two images 28

Photoshop nightshots stacking technique 29



Photoshop portrait effect 32

Photoshop red eye removal 33

Photoshop remove dark eyes racoon eyes 34

Photoshop scripting selection coordinates 35

Photoshop sharpen alternative 36

Photoshop sky replacement 37

Photoshop straighten an image 38

Photoshop tips 38

Photoshop Trimoon Glaze effect 39

Weird Effects with Photoshop 39

Photo white balance coffee cup Styrofoam 41

Photoshop mask insert people images 42

Printing in duotones, etc. 43

Shan Canfield – Clean Skin Process 45

Lab Color Sharpening – Using the Luminosity Data 56

Edge Sharpening 57

Using Sharpening to Change Contrast 58

Softening Technique for Portraiture and Glamour 58

Saving Actions in Photoshop 81

One Line Javascript Solution 82

Feivel’s Tips on Whitening Teeth 83

To easily resize a photo in Photoshop

Shan Canfield

1. Go under Image>Image Size and UNCHECK , I repeat, UNCHECK the Resample box. Leave Constrain Proportions checked!

2. Have you UNCHECKED the resample box?.....good

3. Now simply type in 8 inches. Everything else will bump proportionately.

Dream Effect Used on Football Player

David, I like the dream of my favorites from Dave......but I think I would put the dream effect layer at the top....turn it into a mask and then bring a little of the detail of the center player out....might give it a nicer look. As is...the face seems to dark/muddy looking.

Maybe something like this:

How to use a layer mask to blur a background

I have recently seen on the 10D forum a photograph whereby the background has been blurred by isolating it using a layer mask. Could someone please explain to me how this is done?


1. Duplicate the image layer by dragging the palette image layer down to the new layer icon.

2. With duplicate layer active, Filer>Blur>Gausian Blur. Blur image as desired.
3. Add layer mask to the blurred layer by clicking on the second palette icon.
4. Reset colors to default Black and White.

Using a medium soft Black paint brush, go over the subject to reveal the sharp base image.

Use 100% opacity for less precise work that is away from subject edges.

5. As you get nearer the subject edges, reduce the brush size, opacity and softness for gentle transition between layers.

Zoom way in for accurate brush strokes around the subject edges. A somewhat soft edge minimizes the cut-and-paste look. Remember that objects usually have 3 dimensional curved edges.

6. Switch brush color to White to correct errors.

"x" key toggles foreground and background color back and forth.
Save with layers intact for later revisions, or flatten for smaller file size.

screen shot "tutorial":

Instructions on using Gradient tool

1. Press Q to enter quick mask mode

2. Press G to activate the gradiant tool and make sure linear gradient is selected. Select Foreground to Transparent gradient, and make white the foreground color.

3. Click on the image about the top of the dogs, and drag the gradient to the top of the image.

4. Press Q again to exis quick mask mode

5. inverse selection
6 . apply blur

I hope I got this right, as I am a newbie, but I want to start helping other folks here. someone else might make my instructions easier.

Making sun rays in a photo

I didn't know how to make them, so I found something that worked with this picture, not sure if it will work with another picture.

I merged my layers and applied a motion blur: -55 degree, 999 pixels, then applied a layer mask and only revealed the rays where I wanted them. The blending mode on the blurred layer is screen. Hope this helps.

PS: I'm sure there's a better way to do it... I just guessed at a way.

Regards :)

Unda Covalava wrote:

> How did you add those sun rays? You've turned this photo into a
> work of art!

Painting the old fashioned way (from Cricket)

1)duplicate background (for safety)

2)select all
3)edit> define pattern
4)new blank layer
5)use the pattern stamp with a rough brush to paint the entire blank layer

6)new layer then choose a smaller brush and paint the areas that need more detail

7)stamp image (hold down alt, choose merge visible
8)run filter>texturizer on the image (I chose canvas V2)

10) flatten and save

from Susan:

It's a really cool technique - and it isn't quite as easy to get really good results like this example as one might expect. The PS7 one-click wow books have some pattern stamp brush presets which work really well - I particularly like the watercolour ones. But I'm still struggling to get a result that I'm happy with. Funnily I find it easier using the clone technique (which works the same way) in painter classic to get results I like, perhaps because the brushes do react a little more like the real thing than the PS ones do.

This time I noted the brushes that I used. For the large brush I used the wowPS brush oil, medium. For the small brush I used wowPS brush x small.

I also used PS brush natural media wet oil medium and natural media dry brush (the one that is pretty much vertical)


Image control: Zoom out | Zoom 100% | Zoom in | Expand / Contract | New window

This time I noted the brushes that I used. For the large brush I used the wowPS brush oil, medium. For the small brush I used wowPS brush x small.

I also used PS brush natural media wet oil medium and natural media dry brush (the one that is pretty much vertical)



Use a tripod, set the camera to


manual focus set to infinity,

tungsten (indoor lightbulb icon) white balance and

experiment with speed and aperture. Rich's recommended starting point is a good one.


4 seconds

photo jpg jpeg batch saves

In the "Batch Mode" configuration, make sure you select "Supress Save Command". That should do it. Click on my name to search for similar suggestions I made for a couple of individuals in the past. It works. I usually do this to prepare images to post on After running the batch, I walk away for a smoking breaking.

M.Loren wrote: > Hi! > > I am sure I missed something here but I just cant find the sulution. > When I have recorded a Action to use in PS7 and I go to Automate > and Batch everything goes fine until the saving procesdure, I just > cant get by the "Save As" sign where I have to choose quality. > Not much idea to use the batch if I still have to be by the > computere to save every picture manually anyway.

Photo last step retouch
I'm not sure where I picked this technique (maybe Peter iNova) but just when I think I'm through adjusting the image I run this on a separate layer and invariably keep it as part of the finished picture. Try unsharp mask set to amount, 18%, radius 50 pixels, 0 threshold. It is a goofy setting and I'm not sure why it works but it does. It just sparks up a picture....Dave


Photo macros tips

Camera Settings
Here are some tips:

1. Use manual focus. Lock the focus and then gently rock the camera back and forth until you find that sweet spot (where the image looks crisp in the LCD). This takes a lot of practice.

2. Use full zoom in situations were vignetting is likely (e.g., if using a 2xTC after some stacked close-ups or using a reversed 50mm lens).

3. Use a small aperture (large F value) to maximize depth of field (the amount of the image in focus). The more magnification, the less depth of field.

4. Fill flash is usually a good idea. The majority of my shots are at F8 (which is the smallest aperture a prosumer digital camera gives) with fill flash.

5. I typically use aperture priority (Av) with F8 (the smallest aperture my camera gives).

6. I also use manual mode a lot. On the G3 it enables higher shutter speeds with F8, but the quality of light is different and the backgrounds are often darker.

About 90% of my bug shots are handheld. I think this is one of the major advantages of a prosumer digital with a flip out LCD screen. When I do use a tripod, I may use a macro focusing rail (or slider) that allows you to move the camera back and forth in tiny increments without moving the tripod. Given that the DOF is so shallow in macros and that I prefer to lock the focus and move the camera back and forth, the rail is a useful tool.


The Digital Darkroom

The more the magnification, the less DOF you get. There is no getting around that. I try to use what little I get as best I can. Furthermore, I try to take the image such that it will not need much “developing” in the digital darkroom. In reality, I find that such perfect images are few and far between.

When working in the digital darkroom, my goal is typically not to alter the image, but rather to improve upon what the camera gave me. Occasionally though, I will alter the image by adding clouds to the sky, cloning away unwanted items, or in rare cases, replacing the background.
I have also worked on a technique of using more than one image (taken within seconds) that have different planes of focus and compositing them for increased DOF (I am most likely to do this with extreme macros because DOF is so limited there). The milkweed beetle shown here is an example. I wrote an article on this technique for Tom Webster at
Here are some digital darkroom tips:

1. Take a lot of shots, trying to vary the plane of focus a bit on each so that you are likely to get a couple that hit the sweet spot so to speak.

2. Get used to deleting most of the shots you take. As you gain skill, the hit rate goes up a bit (sometimes).

3. Rotating, cropping, adjusting the levels curves, saturation, and contrast, as well as sharpening the subject and blurring the background are the basics of developing the image.

4. Masking is hiding areas of the image, so that you can work on other areas without affecting the hidden areas. Typically one might mask the foreground so that the background (BG) can be worked on. I typically do this so that I can give the BG a bit of a blur to remove digital noise (since I don't have one of the high end digital SLR's that give relatively noiseless backgrounds). Creating a mask can be tedious and can be done lots of different ways. I like the "magic wand" tool that selects similar areas on the basis of color. I typically use that first and then refine the mask with other tools.


Photoshop chrome lettering

Subject: For Anyone Who Wants to Do Chrome Lettering

In Luanne Seymour Cohen's wonderful book DESIGN ESSENTIALS FOURTH

it says:

1.) Create a new RGB file, and use the type tool to create the type

that will become "chrome." Note the point size of the type, for use
in step 5. Save the file.

2.) Choose Layer>Rasterize>Type to change the layer into regular

pixels. Filters can't be used on type layers, so the layer must be
rendered first. Once a type layer has the type can be edited only as
pixels, not as editable text.

3.) Command/Ctrl-click the type layer thumbnail to load a selection

of the type.

4.) Choose Select>Save Selection to create a new alpha channel. Name

the channel Type, and click OK.

5.) With the type sill selected and its layer still active, choose

Select>Feather. Enter a Feather Radius that is about 5% to 10% of the
point size of your type. Note this number b/c you will use it again.
Click OK.

6.) Display the Color palette and choose 30% black as the foreground

color. Choose Grayscale Slider from the Color palette menu to make
this step easier.

7.) With the feathered selection still active, choose Edit>Stroke to

add a soft gray stroke to the inside of the type. Enter the same

value that u used in step 5. Select Inside as the Location. Click OK.

8.) Choose Select>Load Selection, and select Type as the Channel.

Click OK.

9.) Choose Filter>Stylize>Emboss, and enter an angle of 135 degrees

and an amount of 160%. Experiment with the Height amount until ur
happy. Click OK.

10.)Choose Select>Inverse to select the area around the type. Press

Delete/Backspace to clean up some of the soft gray pixels that remain
around the edges of the type.

11.) Choose Select>Deselect.

12.) Option/Alt-click the New Adjustment Layer button in the Layers
palette to create a new adjustment layer. Select Curves as the Type,
and choose the Group With Previous Layer option. Click OK.

13.) Plot the following points on the Curves graph. The first number

is the Input value, and the second is the Output:

A = 0,255

B = 64,31
C = 129,238
D = 193,63
E = 224,255

14.) Click OK to apply the adjustment. Save the file and stop here if

u are satisfied. If u want to color the type before stopping here,
add a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer, select the Colorize option and
adjust the hue saturation of the color effect. THE END.

The book shows pics of the type being turned into chrome and the end

result is wonderful. It really does look like chrome! Hope this helps.


Photoshop removing cracks and lines

Photoshop actions save as
joedirt wrote:
> i am just learning photoshop so i am not sure if after creating the
> action, then making it into a droplet has any real advantages.
> i was just going through some tutuorials on adobes website and
> noticed it so i gave it a try.
> here is the tutorial as you may learn more from it than i did since
> you are a more experienced user of photoshop (which i someone wish
> to be).


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